Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Still in Training

Hello. I’ve got a short and sweet blog entry this week! (For me, that is.)

1. Adaptation
2. Visiting Local Businesses
3. Bonfire, Cave Paintings

1. Adapting to Honduran culture. I just wanted to talk about ways that I think I am adapting slowly but surely to the Honduran lifestyle. Sure I’m still wet under the ears considering all the time I’ve got left here, but lots of things that were weird to me nine weeks ago are just part of my daily routine nowadays.

First is the food. I am completely used to and content with eating beans, rice, plantains, eggs and tortillas on a daily basis. They fill you up and I like the way they all taste together—at first it was weird mixing the sweetness of the plantains with everything else, but now it just feels normal.

Second, I’m learning how to live with and around kids. Sure, not every Honduran family has lots of kids, but many do; kids seem to be everywhere (something like nearly 50% of Honduras’ population is younger than 30!) Being an only child, I don’t really have too much experience living with young kids. But I think that my younger host siblings and I are getting along great and it’s actually been fun. We play lots of games (soccer, basketball, badminton, card games, who can make the weirdest face etc). I also get to help out with homework and English sometimes. If they start making trouble, I let the parents handle it. Win win. Also, the 17 year old host brother has become one of my best friends here in Ojojona and has been a big help with getting accustomed to the culture.

I don’t think twice about taking a cold bucket shower or flushing the toilet using a bucket. It’s inconvenient getting running water every four days, but it’s not the end of the world.

Finally, for the most part, I’m used to the weather. I still get hot, but I just don’t notice it as much. Besides, it makes my cold showers feel all the better.

2. Business Visits. As far as what I’ve been doing, we’ve been visiting lots of local businesses including a potter way up in the hills overlooking Ojojona, artisan shops in the main plaza, a tilapia farm 45 minutes into the woods on a very bumpy road, and a local cheese producer. The last made me a little nauseous, but the farm was really cool. I like how they’re making it a point to show us all aspects of typical Honduran businesses.

3. Bonfire and Cave Painting Adventure. Last weekend one of my follow volunteers had a bonfire in his back yard and we played guitar and had a good time. It’s nice to relax with on the weekend with fellow trainees. They will be a great support in the future both in terms of technical help and motivation.
Also, this past Sunday, eleven of us went on a real Honduran adventure, hiking into the woods in search of caves with wall paintings/carvings. We got a little lost because of bad directions, but it was a blast. It reminded me of Indiana Jones. We finally found the caves with the help of a local kid who lived around there. The paintings were neat, but sadly people had graffiti-ed the rest of the caves (see pic if it loads—which it probably won’t, based on my track record here). The whole thing took about five hours all together. De todos modos, it was awesome to get out into nature.

Tomorrow we’ve got our last technical interviews with our training directors in which we’re going to discuss possible sites/work.

Okay, those are this week’s thoughts. Hope everyone’s doing well in America.

Monday, April 19, 2010

Honduran Manners: Contradictions?

Buenos días de Ojojona, Honduras! We’re beginning to approach the end of training already and it’s hard to believe. They’ll tell us our site placements sometime during the first week in May; I think we’re all getting a little anxious to know. Overall, things are still going great here. Here’s the summary of this week’s blog post:

1. Business trip to the playa!
2. Singing in Honduras
3. How manners and politeness are different here
4. Explosive diarrhea… not really, but casi

1. Beach. This past week we business trainees went on a field trip to the beach on the Pacific! Pretty cool trip. We visited various small Honduran businesses geared towards tourism and then wrote up business plans about them. The weather was hot and humid, but we got to camp on a beautiful beach (see pic if it loads). There was some beach volleyball involved as well as a bonfire, guitar playing and singing and cards. It was a great break from our classroom training and a time for some real “team-building.” The next day we visited the town of Amapala, located on Tiger Island about 20 minutes south in boat ride off the mainland. Another super hot day, but the town was muy tranquilo. To top it off, we ate at a seafood restaurant that was literally right on the beach. We had ceviche, “curiles” (black clams, normally eaten raw, that live in the freshwater mangrove swamps along the Southern coast) with lemon and lime and pico de gallo, and a great paella. Delicious—even the curiles. Plus, better yet, I didn’t get sick! All in all, it was an awesome trip.
Our training director hinted that one of the 18 of us might get placed there for the two years. I think it would be cool to live on a Pacific island for my service, even if it were in sweltering heat and humidity. I’d get used to it, right?

2. Singing. Just a quick observation on singing here in Honduras (okay, it’s a stereotype, I’ll admit). Nobody sings in tune here. The hymns at church remind me of holidays with family in Iowa (not to mention any names), people singing along with the radio is painful to listen to, and even the Honduran bands that are played on the radio are often live versions that are horribly off key. And boy do they blast music everywhere. Somebody else in my group was talking about the same thing and they compared the radio here to a drunken karaoke night. That’s kinda harsh, but funny. I’m sure there are some people here in this country who have a hint of musical ability in terms of tone; I just haven’t found them yet. I mean good for Hondurans for just singin’ their little hearts out, without caring or knowing they’re making me squirm a little.

3. Manners. Another generalization about Honduras that has struck me as noteworthy over the weeks: how manners and politeness are different here and, perhaps, a bit contradictory. On the one hand, Honduran people are super conservative and polite to the maximum in terms of how they use their language—they treat almost everybody with “Usted,” the formal “you.” It’s sort of like calling everybody sir or madam in English. They certainly don’t do that in Spain; and we certainly don’t do it in America (though I think Southerners are the closest thing to it). What’s more is that they say “mande” instead of “what” or “yes?” when somebody calls their name. Literally translated, they say, “give me orders” or “take charge.” Even another example is that they say “con permiso” all the time—when they walk in front of somebody, when they get up from the table and when they want somebody’s attention. It basically means, “with your permission, I will pass or get up from the table.” It’s like they’re all still living under Spanish colonial rule, begging permission from the Peninsulares that are in charge. It’s nice, but a bit extreme in my opinion.
Yet, on the other hand, lots of things that are big no-no’s in America are acceptable here in terms of manners and politeness. These very polite Hondurans who treat everybody formally, have no problem spitting on the floor in their house, right on the tiles. I mean, what’s wrong with that, right? They’re just going to mop the floor in a few days anyway. Another thing is that they throw trash everywhere except in trash cans: out the bus window, on the same floor they just spat on, on the street as they’re walking. There is no second thought about littering. I guess the public sanitation services aren’t quite on par with America’s, but still… Finally, when you go to the local corner pulpería (market) to buy something, it’s customary for the attendant to greet you with, “what do you want?” I haven’t gotten a courteous “hello” or “good afternoon” yet. Nice customer service.

4. Sickness. So I haven’t had explosive diarrhea yet, but I’ve gotten sick to my stomach here two times now and it’s not fun. But, I’m not sharing this to gross you out or for sympathy, but rather journalistic accuracy: just to admit that yes, my gringo stomach has a lot to get used to. It’s part of the adjustment of the Peace Corps I guess. I think everybody in my group has gotten sick to the stomach at least once in the past couple months here. The first time I got sick was definitely my fault: I ate a “minuta” from a street vendor in the central park here in Ojojona on a really hot day. Bad move. Minutas are basically fruit icies with shaved ice (most likely made from unpurified water which we’re not supposed to drink/consume, no matter what physical state), covered in three types of fruits (strawberries, pineapple, and tamarind which probably were not washed or very fresh) and topped off with a healthy pour of condensed milk (that had probably been sitting out in the sun all day). It tasted damn good, but boy did I regret it that night and over the next couple days. The next time I got sick was the next week and was most likely due to fish soup which tasted okay, but was questionable. Ugh.
Finally, one last sickness, I got a pretty mean sinus cold that hit just yesterday. No stomach symptoms yet. All the kids in my house are sneezing lots these days, probably caused by the change in weather over the past week (it’s been rainy and cold), and nobody knows how to cover their mouth. So snot is flying all over the place all the time (literally sometimes). Plus, they’re kids who like to go to school and share their sickness with other kids. And I’m a gringo with an immune system not used to these tropical bugs.
Actually, I wanted to say that the Peace Corps Medical Officers (PCMO’s) have been really great and are just a phone call away. They deliver medicine right away and tell you how to get better. But they threaten to take a stool sample if you don’t get better in a few days. Some people in the group have apparently had parasites already, so I feel pretty lucky. If you’re lucky, I’ll be filling you in on all of my illnesses over the months to come.

Sorry about all the parentheses; my teachers have always told me that I use too many of them, but that’s just how I roll. Okay, enough typing for now. Take care.

Monday, April 5, 2010

Holy Week and Sawdust Carpets

Happy Holy Week and Easter to all. I’m entering my sixth week of training (half way through) and things are still going strong. I think that I’ve decided I like summarizing my paragraphs in a sort of table of contents at the start of my blog entries, so I’m doing it again. Read what interests you but don’t feel obligated to read it all, obviously. I’ve written a whole lot this week:

1. holy week vacation: visiting extended familia in Tegucigalpa and Valle de Angeles
2. alfombras de aserrín take two (sawdust carpets)
3. rain during the dry season!, subsequent power outages (apparently all too common)
4. NCAA basketball tourney (Duke Puke)
5. cultural day in the PC training center (singing, dancing, pickup lines and dodgeball)
6. training: ask and ye shall receive… hands-on activities

1. Holy Week. Holy Week is a pretty big deal for most people here in Honduras—since people are either very religious or, if not, they’re at least appreciative of the entire week off of school or work. Many people use the time off to go to the beach or to visit family. The Peace Corps gave us Thursday and Friday off, so I got to relax a little bit myself but it also gave me the chance to get a couple really cool peaks into Honduran culture that I feel kind of special for having been able to experience. The fam took me on a two trips in their car (a big luxury!) to visit extended family.
On Thursday we went to one of the poorest neighborhoods in Tegucigalpa where Jose’s (my host dad) elderly aunt and uncle live with their children and grandchildren. They had two rooms in their house that were separated by a hanging sheet—nonetheless, not to sound intentionally cliché, they were probably the nicest people I’ve met in Honduras yet and went out of their way (and probably their budget too) to make me and my host family feel welcome there. They said that the running water only comes to their house once a month and that they’ve got to ration it or else they’ll be in big trouble; I can’t even imagine. Even though all of the houses around them were as small and humble as theirs, the neighborhood was actually kind of bonito (“beautiful,” a term Hondurans use a lot) because of all the trees everywhere. I was surprised to see so many.
On Saturday we went back to Valle de Angeles (where I lived for three weeks for the first part of training) to visit more extended family living there. Valle is a real tourist destination and it was packed since it was perhaps one of the busiest vacation days in the whole year. But I actually enjoy the town a lot—it’s colonial and historic with a nice downtown park and lots of artistry places—the climate there is very agreeable as well.

2. Sawdust Carpets. Last blog post I lamented the fact that I missed the traditional sawdust carpets. Well, good news. All the PC trainees were invited to Don Ricardo’s house (he’s one of the super rich fellows in town who apparently always invites PC people to his complex) on Black Friday to help make our own sawdust carpets. He had bought two pickup truck loads of sawdust of just about every color. The twelve or so of us who showed up were down on our knees playing around with sawdust for about six hours making religious designs. (see picture-- if it decides to upload) It was fun for about the first hour or so, but got tedious pretty quick. We also met some other Americans from the US embassy. The sort of sad part was that only three hours we finished it, it started to rain, which brings me to my third point.

3. Rain! It rained here for two days in a row this week! It was the first time it had rained in four months according to my host family. For a country that is experiencing a pretty severe drought, that’s a big deal. I liked it because it really cooled things off around here. It also settled some of the dust that’s been pretty rampant these days. The bad part is that when it rains, the power often goes out. So, we had about 5 hours of electricity over the span of about two and a half days. I think that’s bad for the food in our fridge.
4. Basketball. I luckily got to watch the two final four games on Saturday and hope to be able to watch the championship game. It’s too bad that I’ve missed the entire tournament, my favorite sports event of the year by far, but I feel privileged to have been able to watch these last games. Duke Puke.

5. Cultural Day. Last Wednesday the PC trainees put on a Cultural Day in our training centers and invited all of our host families. Each of our Spanish class groups gave a presentation about something related to American culture and a few Honduran groups did the same with their culture. It was actually a lot of fun. Since one of the other guys in my class knows how to play the guitar, I borrowed my family’s guitar and we played (and sang!) a hit bluegrass song called “Wagon Wheel” by the band Old Crow Medicine Show, which talks about a guy’s trip “heading down south to the land of the pines” looking to start a new life. Of course he’s talking about going to North Carolina, but we thought it could work for us going down to Honduras since there are pines here too. It went over well, I think (after we explained the lyrics and what bluegrass was to the families). Other groups taught the Electric Slide, American pickup lines, how to make ice cream floats and Dodgeball. Fun stuff.

6. Training. In my last post I think that I more or less lamented the fact that training here in Ojojona hadn’t really started getting interesting yet and that I wanted to do more hands-on stuff. Well, lucky me, the other volunteers who already speak Spanish and I will be giving 16 classes on various business topics to the local technical school over the course of the next several weeks, starting this week. Not to mention that in a couple weeks we’re all going to be doing a three or four day business simulation at the local high school, as well as a charla on HIV/AIDS. Also, finally, at the end of this week, the whole Business group is going to the beach in the south (on the Pacific) for a two day long field trip.

Okay. Wow. I’ve definitely overstayed my welcome in terms of length of this blog entry. I never wrote this much about my life when I was in Spain or in college or in high school, but for some reason being here in the Peace Corps I feel like it’s my duty to write down a lot of details—I’m guessing this will change over the months to come, but until then, you’ll be hearing about everything that’s happening. Pues, ya está. Hasta la próxima vez. Mucho amor desde Honduras.